Ice-cream cakes are not created equal


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The Washington Post food section sampled some of the best-selling ice-cream cakes made by chain ice-cream stores. Jewel Zimmer, pastry chef at the three-star CityZen restaurant in the Mandarin Oriental hotel in Washington, D.C., was asked to help judge them in a blind test.

WHO TAKES THE CAKE?

BASKIN-ROBBINS: A layer of Oreo Cookies ’n Cream ice cream atop a layer of chocolate-flavored cake. The creamy, white frosting is topped with Oreo cookies and chocolate drizzle. Dull-tasting cake with passable ice cream. The texture was heavy, although it helps the cake hold its shape. Nine-inch round, serves 12 to 16. About $23, www.baskinrobbins.com

BEN & JERRY'S: Layers of Cookie Dough and Chocolate Fudge Brownie ice cream with a brownie cake layer. Thick white frosting, decorated with sprinkles and a mini-cone. Cute design, but it was hard to slice because of the firm icing. The texture was sticky and the chocolate flavor very sweet. Eight-inch round, serves 8 to 10. $23 to $25. www.benjerry.com at store locations.

CARVEL: Cookie Puss, a clown-face cake with a layer each of vanilla and chocolate ice cream, plus a layer of chocolate cookie crunch in the center, decorated with colorful frosting. Kids will love the goofy design and creamy, whipped ice cream. Easy to slice. Serves 12 to 15. About $30, at stores and some supermarkets. www.carvel.com

COLD STONE CREAMERY: Cookies & Creamery, with one layer of Sweet Cream ice cream, a second of Oreo Cookie ice cream, layered with chocolate devil’s food cake, topped with white frosting and decorated with Oreos and chocolate shavings. More cake than ice cream, but Cold Stone was a favorite of tasters who liked the balance of flavors. Eight-inch round, serves 16. About $27. www.coldstonecreamery.com

HÄAGEN DAZS: Ribbon Cake, a single layer of vanilla ice cream covered with milk chocolate, “puffs” of whipped cream and chocolate shavings, the sides encircled with pirouette cookies, wrapped with a ribbon. A very adult and pretty presentation of fresh-tasting ice cream with fluted cookies rather than cake. Six-inch round, serves 9 to 12. About $26. www.haagen-dazs.com

MAGGIE MOO’S: Better Batter Cookie Dreams, a two-layer cake composed of Cake Batter ice cream with a layer of chocolate fudge in the center, topped with white icing and decorated with Oreo cookies. Heavy and too sweet, with gluey icing and an aftertaste. Eight-inch round, serves 12 to 14. $25 to $39. www.maggiemoos.com




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